The Humpty Dance - All about humping

It’s embarrassing, one minute your dog is playing the next they’re humping their friends. But why do our dogs hump? Is it because of dominance? Is it because of stress? Well we’re here to tell you all the reasons why your dog humps.

Oh My God Becky Look at her butt….

Humping is a natural behavior in all dogs of all ages. Whether spayed/neutered or not any dog can have the propensity to hump. While people usually think of it as “dominance” that’s just not the truth. Believe it or not your dog is not out to show you “who’s boss” or trying to dominate you. Despite what people may say humping has nothing to do with dominance. The term “dominance” when speaking about dogs refers to access to a resource such as bones, toys, food, or any other thing that can be viewed as a resource.

i mean, her butt, it’s just so big

Dogs hump for a variety of reasons and over-stimulation is one of the most common ones. When a dog gets over-stimulated some may do zoomies, some may bark and others will hump. It just means that they have reached a level of excitement and this is how they handle those types of situations. If your dog is humping in a social situation like our meetup it may just mean that they need a break. It’s okay to exit the meetup to give your dog a second to cool down.

I like big butts and I cannot lie

Some dogs hump because they’re anxious. Anxiety in dogs can often create displacement behaviors. Which means when they get anxious they feel the need to hump something. It’s a way for dogs to relieve that anxious feeling. If you have an anxious dog who humps it’s okay to let them have this time for themself. If you are really uncomfortable with your dog humping then try to find another outlet for stress relief like enrichment. If you’re not sure what enrichment is you can check out our posts on all things enrichment here and here.

Baby got back

Sometimes humping is just a form of play. Dogs play in many different ways. Stalking, chasing, biteyface, wrestling and humping are all forms of playing in dogs. When dogs play they often mimic behaviors that they would do in real life situations. Stalking and chasing are hunting behaviors, biteyface and wrestling are fighting behaviors while humping is a sexual behavior. It is thought that dog play is just practice for when they’re in the real world.

has your girlfriend got the butt?

Sometimes it just feels so darn good. While it definitely isn’t “dominance” sometimes there isn’t always a reason for humping other than it feels good. If you have a dog that humps then there is no reason not to let your pup have a little time alone. So long as it doesn’t create a problem. However, if they’re humping humans then you might want to redirect them to a toy or a chew.

Help My Dog Is Reactive!

Now we’ve already talked about the importance of proper socialization here and we’ve talked about how to find a trainer here. In this post we’re going to be talking about reactivity and ways to help your pup who might be struggling.

What is Reactivity?

Credit: Pooch Parenting

These are dogs that may lunge, bark, whine, growl, snap, or display other "aggressive" looking behaviors. Reactivity may be due to lack of socialization, frustration, or physical conditions, but it is usually embarrassing to the owner who may not understand their dog’s behavior. Some people will say oh my dog has big dog syndrome or PTSD, or any other multitude of ways to describe their dog’s reactivity. Unfortunately, it’s just plain old reactivity and that’s okay. Reactivity is your dog’s way of saying what I see in front of me scares me.

Credit Lil Chin

What does reactivity look like with some dogs?

This can manifest in a multitude of ways. It can mean dogs lunge and bark while out on a leash towards all dogs or even towards certain dogs. It can mean that dogs lunge and bark at humans wearing baseball hats or just humans in general. The basics of what reactivity looks like is the dog is acting in what some think is aggression. A lot of people think reactivity is aggression but aggression and reactivity are two separate and distinct things. Dog’s who lunge and bark almost always do this out of fear. They are fearful of the trigger (dogs, people, other animals) and they think if they lunge and bark then whatever is scaring them will go away.

WHAT CAUSES REACTIVITY?

There’s no one thing that causes reactivity. Some people will tell you that their dog became reactive after it was attacked by another dog and is now fearful of other dogs. Others will tell you that their dog just decided that it doesn’t like other dogs. In some cases a senior dog just needs more space. Most of the time it’s due to undersocialization. Which is why when you have a new puppy it is so important to socialize your puppy in the best possible positive manner with the right positive reinforcement trainer.

Credit Lili Chin

what about using a “training” collar?

ABSOLUTELY NOT! A prong, shock or choke collar used on a reactive dog (let alone a non-reactive dog) is the worst thing you could ever do. What people don’t realize is that by using these so called “training tools” not only do you change the bond you have with your dog but you also can change your dog’s behavior for the worse. Using any sort of aversive on a reactive dog will not help their reactivity, they actually only make it worse. By using aversives with reactive dogs you are showing your dog that other dogs cause them pain and fear and so therefore they only become more reactive.  A dog that pulls to people or dogs and feels the discomfort of the prong collar is at high risk of creating a negative association to what it is looking at. It's called "learning preparedness." Physical discomfort ties to something in the environment. It is easy to be fooled by the dog that runs to the prong or shock collar and assume the dog likes it and thus it's okay. It is not. Especially not for a fearful dog.

what about board and train?

Unfortunately, a lot of those board and train places use aversive tools (as suggested above). There’s no other way they can get the results that they promise in the short amount of time they have your dog. They usually use fear and intimidation to get your dog to behave which have been proven to be ineffective and downright dangerous. There are quick ways to get a certain result, usually they are harsh if not cruel.  The problem is, the results are only temporary because the dog has not learned the correct way to do something, instead it was forced. So in the long run, the dog finds other ways to compensate and get around this new forced behavior or action, resulting in new and compounded issues later on. The truth is aversive methods change behavior quickly so people want to use them. What they don't realize is that they are just suppressing the underlying problem which could come back to haunt them later. The dog is only behaving differently to avoid pain/fear. Don’t fall for the trap that the “trainer knows best” because that’s not always the case. Dog training is an unregulated industry and not all trainers are created equal. I’ve seen first hand how a normal dog went to board and train and came out reactive.

i’ll just exercise my dog more…

Exercise is not a cure for reactivity. A tried dog is just that a tried dog.  By physically exhausting your dog, you’ve solved nothing and may make them less able to cope with everyday stressors. Think about it in terms of humans, when you’re tired you’re not likely going to be happy. I for one know that when I’m tired I’m less likely to want to be nice to people.

I’ll just send my dog to daycare for more socialization…

Unfortunately if your dog is older the socialization period has already ended and there is no way to go back in time. Plus by sending your dog to daycare you run the risk of trigger stacking them. They literally have no time to decompress. Tigger stacking is defined as ‘Stress accumulation due to exposure of multiple triggers, either simultaneously or close enough in time that the dog’s reactivity has not returned to normal.’ (Grisha Stewart, BAT 2.0). It may seem like your dog likes daycare but the reality is they’re doing everything in their power just to survive.

Okay so what do I use instead?

There’s no magic cure all for reactivity. With positive reinforcement and counter conditioning you can learn to manage your dog’s reactivity. This takes time, patience and LOTS of treats. You have to change the way your dog feels about its trigger (other dogs, people, skateboards). Using any form of force, frustration or flooding on fearful dogs makes the problems worse. That means there is no special collar, no special harness, no special tool whatsoever that can cure reactivity. There are a lot of trainers out there that will tell you they can cure your dog’s reactivity and all you have to do is strap on a certain collar on your dog. Unfortunately, that doesn’t cure reactivity and those trainers aren’t telling you about the potential fallout from such aversives. There are some really great ways to help your dog through reactivity like Leslie McDevitt’s pattern games (see video below) and the engage and disengage game (pictured right).

Some super awesome inspiration for reactive dogs

Here are some super amazing dog moms crushing it with their reactive dogs and force free training. Anyone who tells you positive reinforcement didn’t work for their dogs either didn’t know what they were doing or the trainer they hired didn’t know what they were doing. Kayla from the_toby_project who has made huge progress with her reactive dog and Jen down in New Zealand with her reactive dog dax_theangrydog.

Resources:

If you are struggling with a reactive dog and need help we recommend getting help from a qualified positive reinforcement trainer. Please reach out to us as we will help connect you with the right trainer in your area. In the meantime here are some resources to start working on your own:

Reactive Dogs Group on Facebook

Leslie McDevitt’s Control Unleashed, Book

CARE for Reactive Dogs

November is Adopt a Senior Pet Month

What age is considered senior?

For Boston Terriers senior age is often considered to start at 9-10 years old.

Why should I adopt a Senior Dog?

You should adopt a senior dog because they’re awesome. Okay we might be a little biased but senior dogs are great. They’re already house trained, they already know all their commands and you know exactly how big/small your dog is going to be. There’s no mystery.

They love to be with their people!

Senior dogs often just want to be with their people. They don’t need a ton of exercise and play time, they’re happy to just relax on the couch with their favorite human.

They’re often overlooked

Seniors are often overlooked at shelters and rescues. A lot of people just want young puppies but adopting a senior means you can give them the best rest of their lives.

They’re great napping partners

Senior dogs need more sleep than younger dogs making them the best napping partner. This is also beneficial for people who work too as senior dogs will often nap while you’re at work all day.

They’re calmer than puppies

While senior dogs often still have tons of energy to burn they’re often calmer than having a puppy. Seniors are more likely to have short bursts of energy while puppies are non-stop.

it’s Kennel Cough season

It’s kennel cough season and we’re here to help you recognize the signs and symptoms of kennel cough.

what is kennel cough?

Kennel cough (canine infections tracheobronchitis) is a highly contagious respiratory disease. Kennel cough is most commonly contracted at dog parks, shelter environments, doggie daycare and boarding facilities.  Much like the common cold in humans, kennel cough can be spread from one dog to another through airborne transmission, nose to nose contact, or sharing water/food bowls. Good news is that kennel cough is super treatable although it is harsher for young and immunocompromised dogs.

How to Tell if your pup has it?

You’ll know, trust me! My dog Shyla has had it twice and it’s a sound unlike anything else I’ve heard come out of her.  Other than that here are some symptoms to watch out for:

• cough (it will sound like a your pup has something stuck in their throat or like a honking sound)

• sneezing

• runny nose

• loss of appetite

• lethargy

• low fever

HOW IS IT TREATED?

There is a vaccine for it, but much like the flu vaccination there are different strains that the vaccination does not protect against, so a trip to the vet to confirm the diagnosis is needed. Depending on the severity of symptoms, your vet will either let the virus run its course or will prescribe antibiotics. There are also some natural ways to help your pup through this with honey and coconut oil. Whole Dog Journal has laid out some really great ways to help clear up kennel cough naturally.

ways to prevent kennel cough

It is so important to pay attention to our pups. While kennel cough is usually very treatable it can sometimes develop into more serious conditions like pneumonia. Kennel cough can be prevented by limiting exposure to infected dogs and staying away from areas like the dog park when an outbreak has occurred.

what if symptoms persist?

If symptoms persist for more than two weeks it could be a sign of something more serious like pneumonia or congestive heart failure. Another trip to the vet will be needed to rule out anything more serious.

So you’re looking for a boston terrier?

Deciding to bring a dog into your family is a big decision, and one that will impact the dog’s life as well as your own. The choice between buying from a reputable breeder versus adopting from a shelter/rescue organization can often be a difficult one to make. On the one hand a new squishy puppy is hard to resist, on the other hand saving a life by adopting a rescue dog can also be an amazing experience. We’ve already shared how to find a responsible breeder here and covered how to adopt a Boston Terrier here, but we want to help you in your decision on whether to adopt or not.

Benefits of Adopting

One of the main benefits of adopting a Boston Terrier is that you’re literally saving two lives at once. You’re saving the life of the Boston Terrier you’re adopting and you’re also saving the life of another dog who needs rescue by opening up space in the shelters. 

But that's not all:

• Adopted dogs are often already potty trained and have already been vetted for any health or behavioral issues. 

• If adopting from a rescue organization they can tell you more about the dog’s personality. Due to the popularity of fostering, the dog has likely spent weeks--or even months—in a home environment. My own dog Shyla famously spent seven months in her foster home. The best rescues will prioritize quality over quantity therefore dogs sometimes spend longer in foster.

• Rescues sometimes have puppies too, you just need to ask.

• The best rescue organizations will use the dog's time in the organization as an opportunity to diagnose medical and behavioral issues and begin to fix them.

• And last but not least, rescues will often take the dog back if it doesn’t work out. If for whatever reason the new dog doesn't adjust to your home or has unexpected issues you're unequipped to handle (medical, behavioral), returning the dog to the rescue to find more suitable placement is an option.

Risks of Adopting

If you’re adopting straight from a shelter you don’t always know the dog’s background. Sometimes a dog’s personality can change after being in your home for a while, as dogs tend to either be extremely-reserved or over-excited when placed in a new home. The behavior you see in the shelter (or as the shelter workers describe it) can be dramatically different from how your new pup acts once fully-adjusted. 

It’s possible that the dog you’re adopting hasn’t been properly socialized and you will need to work on that with a positive reinforcement trainer and/or with a behaviorist. This is always a big risk with rescue dogs, as some owners would rather give up a dog than to work on the behavioral issues themselves.

Benefits to Buying from a Breeder

Buying from a responsible breeder is also a great option, but you need to be ready to commit to the care needed for the pup for the rest of its life, which could be anywhere from 12-20 years.

Here are some other considerations:

• You can meet the pup’s parents and get a glimpse into what your pup will look like fully grown. You will also get a tour of the pup’s living conditions.

• You know that your pup is truly purebred.

• You’ll get to shape your pup into the adult you want with the proper socialization and training.

• A lot of breeders also do heath and genetic testing to ensure that your pup will not have any hereditary conditions. Responsible breeders breed for the betterment of the breed and temperament.

THE CHALLENGES OF BUYING FROM A BREEDEr:

Of course, buying from a breeder is not without its drawbacks.

• Every year millions of dogs are euthanized in shelters.

• Puppies require a lot of time and attention, often as much as a newborn baby. (Except they pee on your shag rug instead of in a diaper.)

• You’ll need to be prepared to clean up any accidents and deal with any chewing.

• Purebred dogs tend to have more health problems.

• Buying from a breeder can be extremely expensive, and you will be responsible for all its vetting.

Beyond these reasons, not every breeder practices best practices. There are many "backyard breeders" out there that look at this as a side hustle for quick money. These breeders will often cut corners in breeding, care, and early-life medical needs. Sometimes, they may even push pups with known medical issues on to new families without informing them.

Conclusion

In conclusion, whether you choose to adopt a Boston Terrier or buy from a responsible breeder, it is important to be honest with yourself about what your commitment level is and how much time and attention you’re willing to give to your pup. Always seek out the right positive reinforcement trainer for your dogs. A dog is a lifelong commitment and you will have to deal with all of the challenges that come with owning a dog.

Counterconditioning and Desensitization for Fear of Fireworks

It’s that time of year again and if your neighborhood is anything like mine fireworks have already been going off for weeks now. It’s no surprise that dogs can be afraid of the sound fireworks make so we’re here to help your dog understand that fireworks aren’t so scary.

What is counterconditioning?

Counterconditioning means changing the dog’s emotional response, reaction or approach toward a stimulant, whether it be other dogs, skateboards or in this case fireworks. In other words, by feeding your dog delicious treats while you’re playing fireworks on the TV your dog will start to associate fireworks with yummy treats and so fireworks aren’t so scary.

What is Desensitization?

Desensitization is the slow introduction of your dog to it’s phobias at a low level. Starting slowly you can over time build up your dog’s exposure to its triggers, in this case fireworks. Ideally this would be done so that your dog never has the opportunity to react towards fireworks so you’ll need to find that sweet spot where they can hear the fireworks and not get upset.

How does counterconditioning and Desensitization work?

Counterconditioning and desensitization works by exposing your dogs to their triggers (fireworks) while rewarding them with high value treats. Starting at home with you and your dog you play fireworks on the TV at a low volume while simultaneously giving your dog treats like say hot dogs or chicken. Over time you’ll gradually increase the volume so that you can work your way up to almost real life.

How do i know if I’m doing it right?

You’ll know you’re doing it right if your dog is not reacting to the stimuli (fireworks on TV) in the background. However, if your dog starts to show any signs of stress you need to go back to the level where they’re comfortable.

Okay but my dog isn’t food motivated!

That’s okay, not all dogs are pigs like mine (who will sneak off to eat the garbage any chance she can get). Some dogs have a favorite toy or crave affection. You can use any of these things. Does your pup have a favorite ball? Then you can teach this with their ball. You just want to make this as positive experience as possible.

Can I use this for other things as well?

You can absolutely use counterconditioning and desensitization for other things too. The world can be a scary place for dogs. Counterconditioning and desensitization can be used for police sirens, car backfires, skateboards, bicycles, barking and even other dogs. There are a myriad of ways that counterconditioning and desensitization can help your dog live a long, stress free life. Using counterconditioning every chance you get, you can give your dog confidence.  It is not necessary to wait for fears, phobias and anxiety to start showing.

Does my dog have to sit to get the treat?

No. There’s no reason that your dog should need to sit to get the treats you are offering during your work. You just want them to be calm and relaxed and if that means they need to stand then that’s okay too.

See it in action

Here’s a great video of counterconditioning and desensitization for fireworks. Note that while he has his dog sit it’s not a requirement for your dog to be sitting.

How to Find the right Dog Trainer for your pup

It’s no secret that finding the right kind of dog trainer for your pup can be a daunting task. There are so many out there in an unregulated field that it’s hard to know which one to chose. Yup you read that right, the dog training field is completely unregulated. So we’re here to help you know what to look for in finding the right trainer.

What do they say about the way they train?

Before singing up with a trainer you want to look at their website and social media to see what they say about the way they train. You want clear statements about the kind of training methods they use. Look for dogs in flat collars, harnesses or martingales.

Ask questions

Ask the trainer about the methods they use and make sure you’re comfortable with their approach. Look for trainers who only use positive reinforcement and reward the dog for correct behavior and teaches the dog different behaviors in place of improper ones. Positive reinforcement is based on the science of animal learning and strengthens the bond you have with your dog. Ask them what happens if your dog gets it right? Ask what happens if your dog gets it wrong? How do you ensure that your dog is not inadvertently being punished? You want make sure that the trainer is not using positive punishment as a way to train your dog. Ask them about their mentors and who they look up to. Ask about what professional organizations they belong to.

Observe them

A good trainer will let you visit a class and interview them. You’ll get an in-person view of how they train dogs. If you are uncomfortable with what you see in person then it’s not the right trainer for you.

WHAT TO AVOID

You want to avoid anyone using aversives such as a prong collar, choke collar or shock collar (also known as an e-collar, buzz, tens collar, and many other names). These are all punishment based methods and only serve to suppress unwanted behavior and not correct it. You’ll also want to avoid trainers who talk about alpha, or dominance theories and trainers that say things like we use the tools to fit the dog. Those trainers go right for aversives and don’t train any other way. You also want to avoid any trainer who guarantees success. Don’t fall for it when trainers say these tools don’t hurt the dog, they absolutely do and science has shown this to be true.

Resources

Here are some sources to help guide you in your search for a force free trainer.

Pet Professional Guild

http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/

Pet Professional Accreditation Board

http://credentialingboard.com/Professionals

Academy for Dog Trainers

https://www.academyfordogtrainers.com/find-a-trainer

Helpful Terms

We know that there are many different types of dog trainers with different degrees/certifications so here are some helpful terms to ask about. But as a reminder these terms are only a guide and that you should speak with any dog trainer before employing their services.

Professional Canine Trainer - Accredited (PCT-A) certification for professionals who believe there is no place for shock, choke, prong, pain, force or fear in pet training and behavior practices. The Board also offers the only  psychometrically sound examination for Training & Behavior Consultants who also support these humane and scientific practices.

Certified Dog Behavior Consultant (CDBC and Associate CDBC) are trainers who meet the requirements of the IAABC - International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants.

Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed & Skills Assessed (CPDT-KA/CPDT-KSA): Train with the Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive (LIMA) training and behavior work.

Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) or Associate (ACAAB): A CAAB is a certified professional with scientific training in animal behavior. A CAAB works with people and their pets to modify pet behavior that has become a concern for owners.  Our recommendation for a behaviorist is Dr. Terri Bright from MSPCA-Angell.

Veterinary Behaviorist (DACVB): The American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB) is the certifying board for veterinarians who are specialty trained to advance the behavioral health of animals through clinical practice, research, and science-based behavior education.